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Burgess' laser pistol

Episode 13 - Heart of Gold

Re: Burgess' laser pistol

Postby AZSneed » Sat Jan 07, 2012 10:45 pm

Excellent looking pistol!
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Re: Burgess' laser pistol

Postby Zappy » Sat Sep 20, 2014 4:05 pm

Dug out my kit that has been sitting on a shelf these last few years.
I'm going to try to force myself to work on it as time permits.
I like that it appears to be a pretty simple, straight forward build for someone of little to no experience to be able to complete and end up with a pretty decent looking piece. It will all come down to painting ability it seems...
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Re: Burgess' laser pistol

Postby pennausamike » Sat Sep 20, 2014 5:07 pm

Zappy wrote:Dug out my kit that has been sitting on a shelf these last few years.
I'm going to try to force myself to work on it as time permits.
I like that it appears to be a pretty simple, straight forward build
for someone of little to no experience to be able to complete and end up with a pretty decent looking piece.
It will all come down to painting ability it seems...


The only modification I recommend is removing the material where the cut-out is on the handle,

Image

tho' you can see even that isn't necessary to have a nice replica.

MedwayPVB's pistol
Image

Sounds like great "return" project to me!
Good Luck,
Mike
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Re: Burgess' laser pistol

Postby namebrand » Sun Sep 21, 2014 12:27 am

Who sold these kits? I kinda wish I had gotten one.
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Re: Burgess' laser pistol

Postby jason1976 » Sun Sep 21, 2014 3:05 am

Yeah, I passed on this one, and missed out one the helicopter part used in "out of gas" and I'm kind of kicking myself for missing out on both of them. Though I'm sure if I had bout them, they would have just wound up on my pile of half finished projects. I seem to be allergic to finishing projects, I wonder it there is a shot for that. If so I would probably need it in gallon jugs. :lol:
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Re: Burgess' laser pistol

Postby AZSneed » Sun Sep 21, 2014 6:31 am

Sorry, Jason, no cure. I have had all of the test.
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Re: Burgess' laser pistol

Postby Zappy » Mon Sep 22, 2014 12:39 pm

namebrand wrote:Who sold these kits? I kinda wish I had gotten one.


namebrand, this kit is a few years old. I picked it up via the RPF, I believe it was back in 2012 and its just sat on a shelf since then.

pennausamike wrote:
The only modification I recommend is removing the material where the cut-out is on the handle,


Yeah Mike, the closer I examined the piece, that section of the handle kind of sticks out like a sore thumb just in the way that the resin appears in there. The overall casting is really solid without much evident as far as air bubbles. Just some expected cleaning needed on the seam.

Being the first kit that I'm going to be building, does anyone have any suggestions / preferences to paint and primer brands? I would assume any paint designed for model use would be okay for use on resins? Does anyone have a favorite putty to use / recommend for smoothing out those few spots on the seams? I did have a tube of modelers putty I bought a few years back that I was trying to use to smooth out a kit of Jayne's Boo that I picked up, but the putty seemed awfully stiff and wasn't that great at using it to smooth and fill in air bubbles, imperfections, etc.. I pretty much ended up ruining that kit and don't want to experience a repeat of them to any future kits I may work on.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
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Re: Burgess' laser pistol

Postby jason1976 » Tue Sep 23, 2014 1:30 pm

I have heard the "experts" swear by so many different primers, paints, and fillers, over the years. Some have worked well for me, and some turned out so bad, I had to wonder if they posted their suggestion as a practical joke.

First things first. CLEAN WELL. Soat and water, and rinse very well. Some use powdered dish detergent, I think the regular stuff is fine, but rinse REALLY WELL, and let completely dry.

I use Bondo body filler for the really big gaps, bubbled, etc. (it doesn't sound like tis kit will need that.) I use Bondo putty, for the fairly small gaps, seams, and bubbles. it's fairly cheep, easy to use, sets up fast, is then enough to fill well, but not so then as to "run". etc. However, in my experience it tends to repel paint (especially Krylon Fusion), but it takes primer well, so if you use it, I recommend using a sandable primer, before you paint it. I yous supper glue gel for the smaller bubbles, gaps, etc. it fills well, sands down easy, and smooth, and takes primer, and paint well. Filler primer works well for the really small bubbles, and to jernerally smooth out the surface of than item, but it's easy to get carried away with it, and if you get too much on there it can give an items a bit of a "puffy" look. (i.e. too much can absure details, round edges, and cause blobby lumps.)

As for paints I usually yous Dupli-color automotive sandable primer on most stuff, resin, metal, etc. then I use what ever paint best fits the job. On a lot of stuff I will go with Dupli-color paint, but it the items is a super clean casting, and I really don't care about filling, or flaws, I'll use krylon Fusion. (I haven't had the best of luck with it, on most fillers, so I only use it by itself, if I either didn't fill anything, or I have had good luck with it, over dupli-color primmer) For matalics I like Tamiya model paint, either in the small spray cans, or air brush. Recently I had some very good luck with some Red Devil gold paint. (hey I was surprised too. :lol:) And I have even used Riustolium, and store brands.

Over the years, as the laws have changed, many of the brands changed there formulas, that plus, the weather conditions (temp, humidity,) and even what batch it came from, can all effect, what you get. I have had great results with all the brands I have listed above, but I have also had times when any given brand has come out runny, and watery. (Tamiya almost always comes out of the cans that way, so you have to go into it brpared for that) For those reason, I always like to test every can, on a small scrap piece to see how that particular can, of that particular brand is going to act, on that particular day.

If you do mess up the paint job, spray oven cleaner, takes paint off of resin kits, very well. without hurting the kit. You just spray it on (preferably out side) and leave it on, for how ever long the can says you should, to clear an oven, then wipe it down, and wash it very, well, in soapy water, and rinse well, and your ready to start over.

Also, I don't you'll have this problem with this kit, but here is a tip, I figured out on my own years ago. Some times you get a kit that has not cured correctly. You'll get it all cleaned up, and ready to go, and the primer, and paint, just will not stick to it, no matter what you do. This can happen when the resin mix isn't quite right. (you usually see it on the really cheep kits) A lot of folks on the forums will tell you, you can't fix it, and some will tell you to throw the kit away. (I'm far too cheep to do that.:lo:) So, here is what I figured out. Take some supper glue. (either the gell, or even the reular runny stuff, which ever you have handy, and whitchever suits the area best) smooth a generous amount over the effected area, and let cure completely. Then lightly sand it, to the point that it looks good, but try to leave at least a small film of it, over the effected area. then prime, and paint and paint it. The supper clue will stick, where the paint and primer, originally did not, and the paint and primer, will stick to the glue very well. (in other worlds the glue acts as a barer between the bad resin, and the primer.) It's a little tip, but it's saved at least 6 or 7 kits, for me.
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Re: Burgess' laser pistol

Postby jason1976 » Tue Sep 23, 2014 1:31 pm

Oh, and number one tip. Take your time, and remember it's supposed to be fun. :) And, when your finished, if you have done your best, and you're happy with it, then t hat is all that matters.

I have a had full of Mal pistols, and the 2 I finished myself, are the "wrong" color. I know mine are not the color the screen used version was. But. to my eyes they do look right, and the true color looks all wrong to what I see on screen. I could paint them the "correct" color, to make everyone else happy, but they are my pistols, and I'm the one that has to look at them everyday, so I'm leaving them the color that makes me happy. If I worked for studio, or a place that made prop replicas for sale, it would be a different storey, but in this case, they are for my own collection, and I like them the way they are. :)
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Re: Burgess' laser pistol

Postby Bronson BB » Tue Sep 23, 2014 3:01 pm

namebrand wrote:Who sold these kits? I kinda wish I had gotten one.


I've got one I haven't touched yet, myself.
Maybe the seller info is still with it somewhere.
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